TIP, TRICKS & INFO

Hand Saw Types

With so many types of specialized handsaws available, it's hard to know which one to use for your project. Use this chart to help you choose the right tool for the job.

 

The teeth on saws are classified by a number which represents the number of teeth points along 25.4mm (1 inch) of the cutting edge, including those at each end. The number is referred to as so many points, the point size is one greater than the teeth per inch (tpi).

 

 

Cross Cut Saw

 

Saws for cross cutting or cutting against the grain have teeth set in a wide alternating bevel. This creates shearing action to slice through the wood fibres leaving a kerf wider than the saw body so there is no binding. The number of teeth per inch ranges from 8 to 12 and lengths of saws range from 55 to 70cm. These saws cut on the push stroke and are normally used for quick, rougher cutting where tear out is not a concern.

Rip Cut Saw

 

Rip saws are used for cutting with the grain of the wood, so they are sharpened so that the top of the teeth do the cutting. The front of the teeth are generally at right angles to the blade and pitched at between 85 and 90 degrees to the blade. A rip saw cuts very aggressively, but will produce a very ragged cut if used across the grain. They cut on the push stroke.

The number of teeth per inch is usually 5-1/2 to 7 and saw lengths are generally from 60 to 70cm

Panel saw.

 

Usually shorter than regular cross cut saws, for easy portability. They are primarily used for cutting thin wood and for the larger joints.

Teeth per inch range from 8 to 12 and the length is usually from 45 to 60cm. Cuts on the push stroke.

Back Saw

 

Mainly used for fine woodcutting, moulding and trim, the term 'Back Saw' is used to describe a family of saws that have a very stiff body with a reinforced top edge or back usually made from steel or brass to prevent the saw from kinking during use.

In order to give cleaner, smoother cuts, the teeth are smaller in size, with less set and the number per inch are slightly higher than normal cross cut saws.

The length of blade can range from 20cm up to 40cm or even longer for special work and they cut on the push stroke.

Common Back Saws include:

  • Dovetail Saw: A short (200-250mm) saw with very fine teeth (14-16 tpi). Used for fine joinery work like cutting dovetails and pins.

  • Gents Saw: Small, thin saw with a turned handle. Used for general joinery work, and work in tight spaces.

  • Carcass Saw: A middle-sized saw (250-300mm), used for general cabinetry work.

  • Tenon Saw: A larger saw (300-350mm) with coarser (10-12 tpi) teeth, used for rougher joinery work like cutting tenon cheeks.

  • Mitre Saw: A large backsaw designed to be used in a mitre box. These are usually fairly deep under the back, and are available in quite large sizes (up to 750mm or so).

Japanese Saws

 

 

Japanese saws are used on the pull stroke which prevents the blade from bending and reduces binding so a very thin steel can be used. A thin blade produces less sawdust than a thick blade and consequently cuts faster with less effort on the user's part and facilitates great precision. Japanese saws are suitable for sawing hardwood as well as softwood. The three most important types of saw are:

  • The Dozuki is the equivalent to the tenon and dovetail saw. It has got a steel back and is used for cross cut and angled cuts.

  • The Kataba is the equivalent of the panel saw and is used for cutting down timber to size very quickly. The blade has no back.

  • The Ryoba is a combination saw with teeth on both edges of the saw blade. One is for ripping, while the other is for cross cutting.

Keyhole/Compass Saw

 

Have very thin, pointed blades mounted on a pistol style handle made from wood, plastic or metal. Used for cutting small, tight radius curves and holes in wood or for starting a cut from the middle of a board or sheet from a drilled hole.

They have a crosscut tooth pattern with usually 10 or 12 teeth per inch and cut on the push stroke.

A Compass saw is designed for slightly heavier work than a Keyhole saw such as cutting holes in sub flooring for plumbing or electrical wiring.

Wallboard Saw

 

Wallboard saws have turned wood or plastic handle and a very thick, stiff pointed blade for puncturing plasterboard or wallboard.

They resemble compass saws but have coarser teeth (4-6 tpi) for cutting through wallboard, plasterboard and backing board quickly. Cuts on the push stroke.

Flooring Saw

 

This saw looks like a panel saw but has the end of the blade cut in a radius with teeth. The rounded nose is used to start the cut in the middle of a sheet or, as the name implies, in the middle of the floor if you need to replace a board and once through the saw is turned around and cuts as a normal saw.

They usually have 12 to 15 teeth per inch on both the flat and radius. Cuts on the push stroke.

Fret Saw

 

These saws have small metal frames with very thin blades held in place by a clamping system. They are excellent for detailed scroll saw and marquetry work in wood, plastic, or soft thin metal such as brass or copper.

The frame itself often has one fixed arm and one adjustable arm with a throat depth of up to 450mm.

The number of teeth per inch varies from 20 up to 46 tpi for metal cutting and from 7 to 33 tpi for wood. Cuts on the pull stroke.

Coping saw

 

These are similar to the fret saws but are slightly larger and are designed for more robust cutting of intricate curves and shapes in wood. They may also be used to remove waste from joints.

The frame of the coping saw is made from sprung steel and is equipped with a small turned wood or plastic handle which when turned tightens the blade.

Blades normally range from 7 to 20 tpi and have a pin at either end, which fit into grooves on the frame. The lever pins turn to change the cutting position of the blade. Normally cuts on the pull stroke.

Hacksaw

 

Used for metal cutting. Have very fine teeth and thin disposable blades, held under tension front and back by pins in a steel frame. A screw mechanism is generally used to add tension to the blade.

Common number of teeth per inch range from 18 to 32.

18 tpi, is good for cutting tool steel, iron pipe and light angle iron. 24 tpi, cuts drill rod, thin tubing and medium-weight materials. 32 tpi, is used for extra thin materials, light angle irons, channels, wire rope and cable.

The teeth face away from the handle and cut on the push stroke.

The Junior Hacksaw is used for straight cuts on small, light work. The blade is held in tension in a sprung steel frame.

The Mini Hacksaw holds and positions a hacksaw blade so it can be used effectively in difficult to get to areas. Fitted with a backstop for safe handling whilst in use. Cutting capacity is around 35mm.

Mitre Saw

 

This style of mitre saw is like a giant hacksaw but for wood, and they are usually part of a specialised mitre box setup.

They use a steel frame with about a, 40-50mm wide, wood cutting blade tensioned within it.

Like their solid body counter parts they have small, finely set teeth at around 15 tpi. Cuts on the push stroke.

Bow Saw

 

Have a tubular steel frame with a ribbon-like steel blade that is tensioned by a clamping lever and generally are used for cutting logs into lengths. The larger versions of these saws are often operated by two people.

Blades have a standard crosscut tooth pattern with 2-3 tpi for rapid action cutting.

Cuts on both push and pull

Pruning Saw

 

Usually used for cutting or pruning green wood. Generally have either a "D" handle or pistol grip handle and have either a straight or curved blade that have a very aggressive tooth angle for quick cutting.

"D" handle saws are around 450mm long and can have a straight or curved blade and are usually double sided with coarse teeth (6 tpi) on one side and cleaner cutting teeth on the other (8 tpi).

The pistol handle saws are one sided and can be fixed or folding and range from 250 to 450mm.

Another handy tip from Coates Mitre 10 Home & Trade Lithgow